Sunday, April 28, 2013

Region Report: All About Tuscany

Wine Region: All About Tuscany

Fig 1.: Italy in relation to Europe and world

Tuscany is known for its rolling hills, bright sunshine, acres of olives, small villages and coastal climate. Of course, Tuscany is also known for it’s wines, predominantly, Chianti. Tuscany makes great wines as a result of the sand and clay soils which lead to complex but balanced wines. Further, Tuscany has a variety of microclimates, and the vineyards are at a unique altitude in the mountains, lying somewhere between 150-500 meters. The region is known for producing balanced wines, with an ideal ratio of sugar to acid. Tuscany doesn’t only boast Chianti, however. There are 6 wines with appellation D.O.C.G. (Designation of Origin Controlled and Guaranteed including Chianti Classico, and Brunello di Montalcinio, and 30 wines with appellation D.O.C. (Designation of Origin Controlled). The DOCG controls the classification of all Italian wines, and started regulating in 1963, even though this region has been an official wine producer. The DOCG monitors what grape varieties can be used in wines with specific labels and regions, and how certain wines can be produced. The DOC is slightly less prestigious and monitors the majority of wines in Italy and these regulations are slightly more lax. If a wine doesn’t meet the criteria set out by either of these organizations, it is labeled VDT, for table wine. Tuscany is located in central west Italy, and includes eight appellations (sub regions), the major ones are as follows: Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino di Tavola (the Super Tuscans), Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Vernaccia dia San Giminganon.
Fig. 2 and 3: Tuscany, Italy and the Primary Wine Regions of Tuscany

A Closer Look at the Major Sub-Regions of Tuscany:

Chianti: Chianti is known as the drink of Tuscany, and has become ever-popular in the states as a staple of American-Italian dining.  The Chianti sub-region is known for growing the Sangiovese grape, which makes up approximately 90% of the Chianti region. The Chianti region is the most well-known area of Tuscany, heard of by even novice wine drinkers (like myself!). Chianti was exported since the 1700’s, and has since made a name for itself worldwide. It must be at least 75% Sangiovese, and there can be 10% Canaiolo and up to 20% of other approved grapes in the region (for example, Merlot or Syrah). The addition of other grapes ensures that a stable and balanced wine can be made, even if a hard year hits the Sangiovese varieties. These other grapes add complex flavors and add to the Chianti experience as well. Chianti labeled Reserva indicates that it has been extensively aged, and was made with extremely rich and ripe grapes. This is the best of the best. Within this sub-region, there are further designations for different kinds of Chianti. For example, Chianti Classico is a small area of land, about 100 square miles, that has a slightly different soil and climate than the rest of Chianti because it is higher in the mountains. 
Fig. 4 and 5: Example of Chianti Classico Label and a 100% Merlot Masseto.

Brunello di Montalcino: Brunello di Montalcino is produced from 100% Sangiovese and is always aged for at least 50 months. This region’s wines are known for being lower in acid than Chianti and for having darker and more leather-like flavors. Interestingly enough, this wine may be produced from Sangiovese Grosso too, a clone of Sangiovese which produces the darker flavors of the characteristic wine. Brunello di Montalcino is warmer and drier than in Chianti.

Vino di Tavola: Vino di Tavola is now best known for its Super Tuscans. It is important to recognize the Super Tuscans in this region, because they have made quite a name for themselves in the past few decades. In the 1970’s, winemakers started to break traditional winemaking rules and began to bring in new grape varieties, and started using new French oak barrels for aging. For example, sometimes merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon was added to traditional Italian wines, clearly breaking the DOCG and DOC’s wine regulations. The wines were then labeled VDT, and were less marketable as a result. However, these wines were extremely well-received by the global population. To compromise, today, the IGT (Indication of Geographical Type) category of regulations has been added. This allows the labeling of sub-Tuscan regions that a wine is from, thus allowing more flexibility for the wine-maker to experiment in Italy.

Vino Novile di Montepulciano: This area is known for making wines with a minimum of 70% Sangiovese that is then aged for at least 2 years in a barrel. They have a lot of umph and are very complex.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano: Vernaccia is a white grape grown in this area, and is known for making a very dry wine. Sometimes, they taste like rocks, a flavor influence from the minerals in the soil.

We have already talked a bit about Sangiovese, but let’s get more specific about what the major Tuscan grapes brings to the table. The Sangiovese varietal is the most planted grape in all of Italy. It characteristically has a high yield and late ripening, and it specifically requires well-drained limestone soils and a hot climate. The grape is thin skinned but can age very well and goes best when paired with food such as tomatoes, pasta and light meats. Tuscany also grows renowned Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot varieties. As for the whites, Trebbiano is the common, and makes up 1/3 of Italy’s white wine production. This wine is fresh and crisp, high in acidity and doesn’t have many pronounced flavor, often being described as bland. Tuscany also grows Vernaccia (the only white wine in Tuscany labeled DOCG). One wine that is very unique to Tuscany is Vin Santo. This is a dessert wine made from the Trebbiano grapes. They are dried by air after harvest until the beginning of Holy week before they are fermented into wine.

It was not possible to find how many wineries are in Tuscany, but there are 64,000 hectares of vineyards in the region, of which 70% are reds.

Fig. 6: Vineyards in Tuscany, Italy
Navigating the many wines of Tuscany can be a challenge, but with knowledge about the Italian labeling system, much information may be derived without having intimate knowledge of the wine itself.  Most labels will feature their quality classification (If it is a DOCG wine ect), the appellation (for example,  Chianti Rufina),  the year, the brand name (but more often the name of a particular house), the address and name of the producer (different than in the US!), and the usual contents, such as vintage, alcohol content and volume. It is valuable to look for the word ‘Riserva,’ because this indicates that the wine has been aged for longer than other wines. This also indicates a more expensive wine!

Tuscany one of the best regions in the world for wine, and I hope to be able to visit this enchanting land one day.

No comments:

Post a Comment